
1 1 S ^ u 




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PATENT 1881 




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((SjYGILBERT MilMEFACTIlRINGCO. 










26&28 BEDFORD ST. BOSTON 



238 CHESTNUT ST PHIL^ 



This represents a section of a floor of one of the Pour Mills now making these celebrated 
Twills for Dress Lininrjs end Tailors^ Trimmings. 

IMPROVED ROYAL, SATIN CLASSIQUE, SOVEREIGN, GROS GRAIN, SATIN 

MERVEILLEUX, and nine other qualities. 




Every Dealer, Every Dressmaker, and Every Consumer in the United States is using 
or should use these popular goods. 

Owing to their popularity many attempts have been made to imitato them. 

"We therefore would call your attention to the following ticket printed in red ink which 
will appear on every piece:— " BEWARE OF DECEPTION. On and 

after tho 27th of December, 1882, all our Goods will bear 
the signature of the Company: 



INSTRUCTIONS 



IN 



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ressitta 



&tfi^^ 



BASTING AND FITTING, 



AS SET FORTH BY 




MODEL WSIST LINING 



lim ^ 



BLOOMINCDALE BROS. 

3rd Avenue, Corner 56th St., New York. 

Dry Goods, Suits, Wraps, Underwear, Milli' 

nery. Hosiery, Cloves, Parasols, Jewelry, 

Books, Stationery, Picture Frames, 

House Furnishings, &c. &c. 



We call jjarticular attention to our Fanc^ Goods, Lace, Embeoid- 
EEY, Trimming and Small "Wake Depaetments, they being the 
largest and most complete in the city. 

Our collection of BUTTONS has no equal in or out of New York. 
Fringes, Gimps, Passementeeies, Beaids, Velyets and Eibbons 
matched in every possible color and style. 
Sewing, Knitting, Embeoidery and Frilling Silks in 2,000 Shades. 
We are direct importers of Zephyrs and Fancy Woek Mateeials. 
DRESS AND WAIST LININGS IN ALL GRADES. 
Dressmakers may rely upon finding every item they require and 
having their orders filled in the most perfect and advan- 
tageous manner. 
Our Catalogue, which is the most complete Shopping Guide sent 
OUT OF New York, mailed free to any address out of the city. 

BLOOMINGDALE BROTHERS, 
3rd Avenue corner 56th Street, New York. 






PREFACE. 

The following is a brief treatise on the art of dress-fitting, as 
practised in the past and present age ; the progress of which has 
long been seriously hindered by arbitrary and inaccurate systems 
and methods of cutting. 

" The Moschcowitz Model Waist Lining " is an invention and an 
invaluable production, the result of years of patient thought and 
laborious mechanical experiment, founded upon our life-time 
experience in dress-making ; and destined to set aside and abso- 
lutely dispense with these false methods in cutting ; all of which 
have signally failed to guarantee a perfectly-fitting garment for 
the human figure. 

Hitherto it has been generally supposed that the secret of 
success in dress-making consisted in the cutting: whereas "The 
Moschcowitz Model Waist Lining " demonstrates that the 
triumph of the art lies in fitting ; and in making the cutting in 
all cases subordinate to, and dependent upon a perfect fit. 

This will be manifest when it is remembered that notwith- 
standing all that may be said of the divinity of the human form, 
and its perfect diversity : yet experience teaches that there are 
innumerable irregularities of figure which the best methods of 
cutting are unable to master. For example, take two forms 
registering the same measurement of bust, say 34 inches ; while 
in other respects these forms present an absolute contrast. One 
happens to be very full across the front and narrow across the 
back; while the other may recline forward, have a narrow chest, 
a round back, and large shoulder blades. It is evident that the 
one requires a garment having a broad front and a narrow back ; 
while the other requires a broad back and a narrow front. 

But the divisions in cutting according to the systems which we 



Ill 



condemn are similar, because the bust measurement happens to 
be the same : yet it is evident that one of these figures requires a 
broad front and a narrow back; and the other a narrow front and 
a broad back. 

The difficulties increase with other irregularities, which are not 
so easily detected by measurement; such as square or sloping 
shoulders ; but which, under the process of fitting, are made 
manifest by the garment after being basted, enabling the fitter to 
observe every irregularity, and to obtain a correct impression of 
the true form. 

This will be still more apparent when it is remembered, that 
in fitting, the upper part of the waist is the only natural part of 
the form, according to which the impression is taken on that 
part of the garment ; while at the lower part of the waist, from 
under the arm downward, the fitting must be guided by the 
corset, the outline of which is generally different from that of 
the natural figure. 

Systematic cutting by measurement, according to which the 
garment was completed without fitting, was very successful 
before corsets were worn; because, when the garment was put 
on, without a corset, any apparent tightness had control over 
the figure ; and where a fullness appeared it was naturally 
filled out, consequently the defects were not so obvious. 

From a utilitarian standpoint and as an illustration of progress 
in the art of dress-making, we venture in anticipation to com- 
pare " The Model Waist Lining," in its practical results, with 
that extraordinary impetus which, not many years ago, as some 
of our readers may remember, was given to the clothing busi- 
ness by the appearance of ready-made garments. 

When wearing apparel was first manufactured ready-made, 
and cut by measurement in all sizes, the patterns were very im- 
perfect, and it took years of experiment to improve them. 



The difficulties to overcome may be imagined by the fact, 
that when one of these garments was worn by a person with a 
good figure, corresponding in bust measure to that of the gar- 
ment, it was found that its different parts were out o propor- 
tion with the corresponding parts of the figure. This experience 
convinced the manufacturers that patterns cut by this system of 
measurement were not a success. Subsequently, persons with 
well-proportioned figures were fitted ; and with suitable altera- 
ations, these figures were adapted to the various sizes, until 
generally correct impressions were secured in all sizes. These 
were finally used as the model patterns by which all ready-made 
wearing apparel, from underwear to dress suits, were manufac- 
tured : and thus purchasers were better suited in every size and 
style, while the garments themselves were always characterized 
by poor workmanship. 

In Paris, where the fashions for all parts of the world are 
dictated, there is but one establishment which pretends to teach 
the art of cutting ; and that establishment is patronized by very 
few persons, because the Paris dressmakers pay more attention 
to fitting than to any of the perplexing systems of cutting. The 
reason for this general repudiation of these systems of cutting, 
is not merely that they are unsafe guides; but that the many new 
garments, which are constantly designed to meet the exigencies 
of taste, and the inexorable demands for change in the fashion 
of all kinds of dress, render them useless. 

This passion for novelty, which seems one of the chief charac- 
teristics, and indeed, we may truly say, oneof the excellencies of 
fashionable taste, constitutes the art of fitting a necessity ; which 
being simplified, as in the case of "The Moschcowitz Model Waist 
Lining," must finally supersede all those formal and confusing 
systems of cutting. 

In speaking thus of fashion, it will be seen that we are not in 



agreement with that brilliant, but cynical essayist, Hazlitt, who 
describes it as the Alpha and Omega of " singularity and 
vulgarity:" nor do we believe as he says, that "it takes the 
firmest hold of weak, flimsy and narrow minds." 

On the contrary, its history presents it as controlling the most 
brilliant and cultured intellects of every age and nation. 

On such subjects Hazlitt was simply a satirical scold ; and not 
the less so, because his animus in this direction was characterized 
by genius. 

It is our intention to publish a work on the history of dress 
and its fashions, in which we will be able to express our views 
more at large on this kindred topic. We now confine ourselves 
to setting forth the practical advantages to be derived from the 
general application and adoption of our "Model Waist Lining." 

We are satisfied from long and practical experience, that it 
will accomplish what we claim for it ; and that it will meet all 
the requirements of variety in new designs : for the parts of 
every new garment must be fitted and arranged as intended by 
the designer, and the model waist-lining is designed to meet this 
necessity in fitting. Moreover, the perfect-fitting pattern, as 
produced on "The Model Waist Lining" will fit any figure; and 
with trifling alterations as herein directed, will be found capable 
of adaptation to every variety of deformity. 

In making these needed alterations on ready-made garments^ 
they will first have to undergo the tedious process of ripping, 
before they can be fitted to the irregularities of the figure for 
which they are intended. These difficulties are all overcome, 
and a correct fit secured by the use of " The Moschcowitz Model 
Waist Lining." 



iHElOSCHCOWITZMODELW/ISTLlttlNG. 

A TRIUMPH OF THE ART OF DRESSMAKING. 

SIMPLICITY, ECONOMY, EXCELLENCE ASSUKED. 
ANNOYANCE. EXTRAVAGANCE, DISCOMFORT OVERCOME. 



This invention is a result of the concentrated experience of 
the most skilled and reputable artists in their profession. To 
mention its origin — the Moschcowitz Brothers — and to say item- 
bodies all that genius, research and culture could devise in this 
direction, is Ijo insure its acceptance as 



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THE MODEL WAIST-LINING. 

Its merits are so many that they can only become wholly 
known by a trial. It is enough to insure its popularity to say, 
that it obliterates old charts and paper patterns, makes all 



7 
mathematical divisions and measurements unnecessary, meets the 
emergency of securing a perfect fit for any deformity, has clearly 
printed upon its surface a practical and economical arrangement 
of the most correct pattern ever devised— with the parts 
(arranged with the grain of the web), distinctly designated and 
provided with cutting, basting and sewing lines, and indications 
where to join— and that while it puts within the hands of every 
lady so desiring, the means of securing an expeditious, graceful 
and perfect fit, it is yet obtainable at the mere cost of ordinary 
lining, and in all sizes and colors. Persons given to any irregu- 
larity of figure may find some trifling alterations necessary at 
the outset, but by the proper study, as herein recommended, and 
adjustment to whatever the irregularity may be, a satisfactory 
result cannot fail to be met by this lining, sooner than by any 
other known process. 

So thoroughly does this great invention simplify the problem 
of waist-making, that one has but to obtain the correct bust 
measurement, and remembering it, as she does the size of her 
glove, she can always secure a perfect pattern by obtaining one 
of these linings corresponding to that measurement. Nothing 
more simple, economical or complete has been devised ; and, in 
addition to its saving time and money, it presents in a compact 
form a concentration of skill and experience, which secures the 
perfection of fitting not only to the dressmaker, but to the person 
whose means forbid the employment of an artist. It has the 
additional recommendation of being uninfluenced by any change 
of fashion, the waist proper of all tight-fitting garments, when 
cut by this lining, being always in keeping with the style. 

As an additional benefit from the general introduction of this 
pattern, and the profiting by all classes, through the advantages 
it assures, the offer is made that to such as purchase a lining 
and return to M. Kaempfer, 299 Fifth Avenue, New York, the 



coupon which bears the size, together with address, and amount 
of five cents and two cents for postage, a skirt or any pattern 
will be promptly forwarded; the price of the other patterns is 
ten cents. 

The MoscHcowiTZ Model Waist Lining and the model 
patterns may be obtained of nearly all first-class dry-goods 
houses throughout the country. 

At such establishments where this novelty was first intro- 
duced, a phenomenal demand was at once developed, as proof 
of its filling a want which has long called for professional skill 
and research, but which has never been artistically and com- 
pletely met until the introduction of this incomparable and only 
perfect-fitting pattern. 

It embraces the best of all systems of dress cutting and 
making; it guarantees against waste of material; it provides 
against misfits; it systematizes cutting, basting and sewing; 
it is within the means of all; it commends itself to trial, and 
carries with its purchase the assurance that the consummation 
which every woman of pride and refinement has longed for, has 
at last been achieved. 

This lining is produced with a lady's waist clearly printed 
thereon. Each separate part of the waist and sleeves is printed 
on the lining, and provided with a dash line for cutting, and a 
dotted line for sewing, also like numbers indicating where the 
parts are to be joined together. Seams Nos. i and 2, under the 
arms, are provided with broken dotted lines, indicating the odd 
number or the smaller size, as each lining is provided with two 
sizes, an even and an odd number, the even number being 
the larger size, as for instance, 31 and 32, which are the sizes 
that one lining contains. On all seams of the waist, large 
allowances provide for any letting out that may be re- 
quired. If a waist lining of a smaller size than required has 



been purchased through a mistake of any kind, it will be found 
that the twelve seams around the waist will each permit of con- 
siderable letting out. For instance, if the small allowance of a 
quarter of an inch is made on the eleven seams on the double, 
and also the middle of the fronts, the waist will hereby already 
be enlarged to the amount of three inches; and, if necessary, 
the seams will permit of much more letting out. For a woman 
very large in front, the surplus pieces at each edge of the middle 
of the front may also be let out as necessary, and another strip 
of goods used for a lap and facing. The sleeves are not printed 
for a very long arm, and will permit of lengthening if necessary, 
by cutting the outside material the required length, and facing 
the bottom of the sleeve with suitable material. 

It is particularly impressed that a correct measurement, for 
this or any other system, is the one thing essential to the secur- 
ing of a perfect fit ; and to obtain 
the required size, measure under 
the arms above bust (see picture), 
draw measure two inches tighter 
than dress is to fit — this number 
of inches is size of lining re- 
quired. 

Should the first trial prove un- 
satisfactory, it may be relied on 
that the measurement is at fault, 
and trial being made in this direction until the proper measure is 
secured, the perfection of the lining will in all cases be sustained. 

DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING. 

Cut each seam^fen the dash line, and at seam No. 3 of the side- 
shape toward the back, you will find a small projection toward 
the armhole, forming a surplus piece, which should be cut on 
the dash line as indicated. This surplus piece is provided, in 




case seam No. 3 should require taking in, because without it the 
side shapes would be too short. The two fronts and backs of 
the waist are divided by a dash line running from the middle of 
the bottom of the front half, to the middle of the bottom of the 
back half, on which the cutting should be done, thus separating 
the parts. 

FOR A PERSON WITH A VERY LONG WAIST 
allow much more than the seam allowance, at the joining of the 
front and back of the waist at the shoulders, also around the 
front and back of the neck. 

FOR A PERSON WITH A SMALL NECK, 

allow considerable around the front and back of the neck. 

FOR A PERSON WITH LARGE HIPS, 
make a considerable allowance below the girdle, outside of the 
provided seam, at each joining part of seams Nos. i and 2. 

In the following are the dimensions of each part of the model 
waist lining, for all the different sizes in which this lining is 
produced, the parts of which are designed for an ordinarily good 
figure. This information is given that ladies may compare their 
waist measurements (before cutting) to the corresponding parts 
of their required size lining, which is very essential for some 
figures, where these measurements differ, owing to a very long 
waist, small neck, or very large hips, for which provision may 
already be made in cutting the waist-lining, as above instructed, 
thereby saving time and difficulty in fitting. 

All other methods of cutting garments are also arranged for 
well-proportioned figures; and in cutting a waist thereby, for a 
form with any irregularity, (the methods not being arranged 
systematically with the given dimensions of each part, as with 
the model lining), the fitter will have to contend with the loss of 
a great deal of time, and difficulty in making such alterations 



in fitting, as are already provided for in cutting the model 
lining, thereby saving material, as well as time and labor. 

THE DIMENSIONS OF EACH PART OF THE " MODEL WAIST- 
LINING" FOR ALL SIZES. 



WIDTHS OF EACH PART. 


LENGTHS, EACH PART. 


I 


2 


3 


4 


5 6 


7 


8 9 10 


II 


Bust 
Measure. 


ffi 


0. 


V 

u 


a 
2v 







u 

C3 u 
1) g^ 


V a 


'0 . 


•S2o 

53 •= 


27 ) 

and - . . 

28 \ 

29 ) 
and - . . 

30 ) 

31 ) 
and ^ . . 

32 ) 

33 ) 
and - . . 

34 ) 

35 ) 
and - . . 

36 ) 

37 ) 
and - . . 

38 ) 

39 ) 
and - . . 

40 ) 

41 ) 
and ^ . . 

42 ) 

43 ) 
and S . . 

44 ) 


19 
20 

20 
21 

21 

22 

23 
24 

25 
26 

27 
28 

29 
30 

30 
31 

32 
33 


39 
40 

41 
42 

43 
44 

45 
46 

57 
58 

49 

50 

51 

52 

53 
54 

55 
56 


10 

II 

12 
13 
14 
15 
16 

17 
17 


12 
13 

14 
15 
16 
16 

i6>^ 


10 

10 
II 
12 

13 

14K 

H'A 

15 
I6K 


II 

13 
14 

15 

15:^ 

16 

17 
I7K 


12K 

14 
15 

is'A 
16 

16^ 


15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
16 

i(>y2 


12 
14 
15 
16 
16 
16 
16 
16 


C 

7 

7K 

8 

7K 
7 

6K 



DIRECTIONS AS TO WHICH SEAlftS TO BASTE, AND HOW TO 
BASTE THEM TOGETHER. 

^t is important that the joining basting on tlie dotted lines 
is so done, that the lines on the two parts equally meet. Their 
evenness can be ascertained by placing the index finger of the 
left hand on the basting-thread of the under part, and running 
a needle through the upper part at the same point. Now com- 
mence with the front dart-seam (being assured that the lines 
are even), basting from the point downward. Then the second, 
and following by basting the front side-shape, to the front — 
matching Nos. i of each part. The fronts being finished, pro- 
ceed by basting the back to the side shape at the back, match- 
ing corresponding Nos. 3 together. In basting this seam 
it is necessary to proceed differently for different forms. 
For an ordinary figure, both pieces should be held evenly 
from the armhole downward. For one with slightly rounded 
shoulders, the back should be fulled in a little from an inch 
below the armhole, to about seven inches downward. For 
a hollow back, the back part must be held a little tighter than 
the side shape, at that distance. After the backs, follow 
the side-seams No. 2, joining the back with the front. Now, 
after the other side is similarly treated, join both halves of the 
waist together in the center of the back, by matching corres- 
ponding Nos. 4 together. This finished, the shoulder seams 
should be basted, which will be found shorter in front than at 
the back. Now the front part should be gently and uniformly 
stretched until both are even at the neck and armholes. 

HOW TO PUT ON A GARMENT FOR FITTING. 

Put the basted garment on wrong- side outward, with seams 
on the outside. Proceed by taking hold of the two fronts with 
the left hand at the hollow of the neck, securing both fronts 



13 

evenly in height and width, and with the right hand insert a pin 
perpendicular, to secure both guide lines at that point. Then 
proceed in like manner at the governing line, by taking hold of 
the two front edges, evening them in width and length, until 
you have secured the desired fit across the bust, then insert a 
pin perpendicularly at that point. Now, commence at the pin 
already inserted at the neck, pinning the fronts together on the 
guide line by inserting pins perpendicularly, about one-half 
inch apart, all the way down. Then proceed by smoothing the 
back and front of the garment, from the governing line down- 
wards, according to the requirements of the form, and if any 
fullness appears from the governing line upwards, both parts 
should be smoothed up to the shoulder-seam. The fitter should 
now take position according to rule A, and proceed by following 
directions for fitting different figures. 

HOW TO TREAT A WAIST OR OTHER GARMENTS AFTER 
FITTING IF ALTERATIONS ARE REQUIRED. 

If any changes have been made on the right half of the gar- 
ment in process of fitting, then the left half should be separated 
therefrom by ripping the seam at the middle of the back. Now 
separate the different parts of the left half of the waist, and 
place each separate part thereof smoothly on a table, the outside 
material upward. Before separating the parts of the right side 
of the garment, the horizontal pin line as placed at the girdle 
in fitting, should be indicated by a distinct marking line, indicat- 
ing also the pin lines as they were placed lengthwise in fitting 
at the seams for either letting out or taking in, as the case may 
be. After these indications have been made, remove the pins, 
and also separate the different parts of this half of the waist, 
placing them smoothly upon the corresponding parts of the left 
half of the garment — observing that the neck, armhole, and 



14 

points of darts have each an even adjustment on both sides, and 
placing the parts so that the old guide lines of the upper and 
lower shapes equally meet. Now the new line indicated on the 
parts of the right side of the garment should be traced through 
with a tracing wheel or some process that will correctly indicate 
it on the lower shapes of the left half of the garment — making 
sure that all cutting which has been done on the right side of 
the waist in process of fitting will correspondingly be done on 
the left. 

HOW TQ FIT A WAIST CUT BY THE MODEL WAIST-LINING 
ON FIGURES WITH SLIGHT, OR OTHER IRREGULARITIES. 

When the garment is put on and pinned evenly together in 
the middle of the front from the neck downward, the fitter 
should pay her first attention to the armholes, where the front 
sleeve seam, No. 5, is generally placed. It is here where in fitting 
a waist, or any other tight-fitting garment, a break is quite apt 
to occur; and it is to one of the following causes that these breaks 
are due. First, from the armholes being too small in width. 
Second, from the armholes being too small in length. Third, 
from the person you are fitting being too short waisted. There 
are two methods of remedying the first defect. One is to cut a 
little toward the front, under the arm, and to let out at the 
seams marked No. i. 

An armhole should never be cut as required, until the last 
above-mentioned seam, No. i, is first ripped a little at the upper 
part to be let out if need be. To remedy break, in the second 
instance, which generally occurs through sloping shoulders, or 
short waists, where the side seams are in too high a position 
under the arms, there commence to slash, or cut in the surplus 
according to rule D, commencing from the front of the armhole, 
and deepening the slashes as you proceed under the arm. After 



15 

doing this, rip open the right shoulder seam, and by gently 
smoothing the front up at that point with the right hand, and 
the back with the 2eft hand from beneath the arm to the shoulder, 
that fault will be revealed. The upper part of the shoulder will 
then adjust itself to the shape of the figure, thus altering the 
previous shape of the neck as required — commencing from the 
front — cutting toward the shoulder seam, until the natural out- 
line of the neck is fitted. Should the neck of the person being 
fitted be long, however, it will be found necessary to let out from 
the shoulder seam at the neck, and take in the seam proportion- 
ately toward the tip of the shoulder. Now rip up the other 
shoulder, repeating in this the changes made in the one already 
cut, also moving the front up to the neck, in keeping with the 
other side of the waist. If a fullness of the middle line down 
the front is observed, as generally appears in this case, take in 
the fullness from the neck down according to the shape of the 
bosom, thereby forming a new front line for your guide in 
finishing. When a fullness appears at the middle of the back, it 
should in all cases be taken in gradually from the neck down- 
ward to the waist. The shoulders, front of armholes, neck, and 
front, being now fitted according to instructions, the fitter should 
turn her attention to the back; and if a fullness is observable at 
the back, side seam, No. 3, at the armhole, it should be gradually 
taken in as far as necessary, being careful that the other seam is 
not in the least disturbed in so doing. Now the right arm of 
the person being fitted should be raised so that the fitter can 
work the scissors comfortably in shaping the armhole under- 
neath, as close to the arm as seems requisite— being careful in 
so doing that the armhole is not cut too low under the arm, nor 
too high on the shoulder; however, at that point, the fitter should 
always be governed by the prevailing fashion. 



i6 

A HGURE, SHORT WAISTED. 

When the waist is put on, and pinned together down the 
middle of the front, the fitter should give her first attention to 
the shoulder-seam on the right side, where she will find a hori- 
zontal fullness back, and front, from the governing line upwards. 
Second, give your attention to the girdle, where will be noticed 
at that portion of the waist, a mass of wrinkles, for two reasons; 
namely, a short waist and large hips. To remedy the first defect, 
should the waist be about four inches too long for the person, 
do not take up all the surplus on the shoulder, as this would 
move up the point of the darts, and side-shape No. 3 too high. 
Place the top of the darts to the proper height, press them 
against the figure with the right hand, and with the left hand 
take hold of the shoulder-seam on the double, and raise up the 
surplus from back, and front, securing the two parts at the middle 
of the shoulder with a pin pointing toward the arm. Then see 
that the side-shapes under the arm are raised up in accordance 
with the shortness of the figure, when you will notice on account 
of raising up the fullness as before mentioned, that the armhole 
is too high, which will cause a break horizontally under the arms, 
which should be slashed, or cut in at the armhole toward front 
and back, till no break is apparent at that point. Having secured 
a smoothness there, continue pinning the shoulder-seam toward 
the armhole, raise the arm of the person being fitted, and cut 
away all the surplus in order to conform to the proper shape, 
and size of the arm. The amount you have taken up on the 
shoulder will prove that the neck, back, and front, is much too 
high, which is to be corrected by slashing, or cutting in, as nec- 
essary. This being satisfactorily completed, commence from 
the front, and continue cutting around the neck until you have 
secured a snug fit. To remedy the second defect, rip up all the 
seams as high as wrinkles appear, until a smoothness is secured 



^7 

to form a new curve of the girdle. Sometimes the various 
shapes of the hips may require that one seam be let out, and the 
other taken in, being careful in taking in one seam, that the other 
is not at all disturbed. Before the removal of the garment from 
the person, place a row of pins horizontally around the waist, 
to indicate the outline at the depression of the waist at the 
girdle, thus preventing from placing the new curve higher on 
one part, than on the other. * 

A FIGURE LONG WAISTED. 

The basted waist should be put on, and pinned together 
evenly from the neck downward, when the fitter will notice that 
the waist being too short for the figure, the position of the darts, 
and side seam No. 3 will naturally be too high; also the curve 
of the waist, which will be found higher on that account than 
the figure calls for. To remedy the above in lengthening the 
waist, rip open both shoulder seams, take hold of the waist at the 
girdle back and front, and move it down until it adjusts itself to the 
girdle curve, and until the darts shall have rightly placed them- 
selves to the form. Then let out the seam allowance on the 
shoulder, which will serve to lengthen the waist. 

FOR A FIGURE UNUSUALLY LONG WAISTED, 

commence in fitting as above recommended, when on account of 
this unusual length of waist, care must be taken that the full 
lengthening of the waist is not done from the shoulder-seams 
alone, as the darts and seams (No. 3) would then naturally adjust 
themselves much below their proper position on the figure. 
Now, as the proper letting out of the shoulder seams will not 
prove sufficient in lengthening the waist, it will be found that 
the provided girdle of the waist will be in too high a position on 
this figure, on which account the meeting of the two guide lines 
in the middle of the front above the girdle will be prevented, 



thus giving the waist from the girdle downward, the appearance 
of a flounce. To correct this shortness of waist, and fullness 
below girdle, as appears in fitting this irregularity, each seam 
should be ripped from the bottom upward to above the provided 
girdle curve. Now commence with the middle back seam, by- 
taking hold of the two joining parts of that seam at the provided 
girdle-curve, and with the right hand pinning in the surplus 
from there downward, by inserting pins perpendicularly, and 
about an inch apart. 

In making this alteration, care must be taken that none of 
the surplus is drawn from the other seams, as that would create 
a drag, or wrinkles. In like manner, treat all the right side 
seams. 

A FIGURE WITH LARGE BOSOMS, AND A VERY DEEP DE- 
PRESSION AT THE GIRDLE OF THE WAIST IN FRONT. 

When the waist is put on and pinned evenly together in the 
middle of the front from the neck downward, the fitter will 
notice, owing to the above-mentioned deformity, a diagonal 
break appearing in the front, at the armhole, where sleeve-seam 
No. 5 is generally placed. Second, a lengthwise fullness at the 
girdle of the waist in front, giving the waist, at that point, a 
loose appearance. To remedy the first defect, rip open the right 
shoulder seam, and let the front adjust itself naturally to the 
form, when it will be found that the front will have a tendency 
to move upward. Then take hold of the front at that point at 
the shoulder with the thumb and index finger of the left hand, 
and smoothing up, join to the back-part by inserting a pin at the 
middle of the shoulder, taking in all that is required from the 
front in so doing. Then continue taking up the surplus of the 
front of the waist at the shoulder seam from the neck, towards 
the armhole, by inserting pins perpendicularly, and with points 



19 

downward. Now treat the left shoulder in the same manner, 
when you will notice, owing to the moving up of the fronts at 
the neck, a perpendicular fullness at the two joining fronts from 
the neck, which should be taken in according to shape of bosom, 
by taking hold of the surplus of both fronts at the neck, and 
inserting pins perpendicularly, point downwards as far as is 
necessary, thus forming a new guide line at that part of the 
front. This may not entirely remove the break, but in order 
to do so, seam No. i should be ripped all the way down — 
meanwhile securing the back against displacement. Then lift 
the arm of the figure high enough to permit your working with 
ease. Still holding the back firmly with the left hand, place 
your right hand over the bust, with the forefingers pointing 
toward the armhole, where sleeve-seam No. 5 is generally placed, 
pressing it to the body, and with the thumb removing the full- 
ness toward the back ; this will cause the front to take a down- 
ward movement, letting it dispose itself naturally to the form. 
Owing to this moving of the front, the curve of the waist will 
lower itself in proportion at that seam. On account of this 
change a considerable letting out at the girdle of the front 
joining of seam No. i will be required according to the demands 
of the figure; and should more than the seam allowance be re- 
quired at that seam, the difference must be made up from the 
next adjoining part, pinning the two parts together from the top 
downward in accordance with the shape of the figure. The 
moving down of the front has, of course, made a portion of the 
back too high; therefore from seam No. i a little must be cut 
under the arm, in the direction toward back-seam No. 3, until 
the armhole is sufficiently eased. To remedy the second in- 
stance, where the fullness in front is caused by the excessive 
depression at the waist, the fitter should take position facing the 
person, and commence by ripping up both darts. The dart-guide 



line toward the front will now be rendered useless, as all the 
taking in must be done from the dart-joining part toward the 
front of the first dart — taking in all that is necessary for the de- 
pression, by taking hold of the two parts of that seam with the 
left hand, commencing at the point of the dart, and with the 
right hand inserting pins perpendicularly all the way down, 
making use of the provided guide-line at the back part of the 
seam in so doing, and forming a new guide-line at the front- 
joining part for the depression. Now treat the second dart as 
the first, removing all the fullness which appears between the 
second dart and side-seam No. i, at the girdle of the waist, in 
the same manner as the front-joining of the first dart, by making 
use of the provided guide-line at the front part of this seam, 
and taking in the surplus from the back part or joining toward 
side-seam No. i, thus forming a new guide-line for the inward 
and outward curves. 

BREAKS DIAGONALLY AND HORIZONTALLY AROUND THE 
GIRDLE OF THE WAIST IN FRONT. 

These breaks generally appear in fitting the waist on a person 
with a short waist in front, and large abdomen. To remedy these 
defects, all the dart seams should be ripped from the bottom as 
high up as the tightness appears; and the pins fastening the two 
guide lines in front should also be removed to that same height. 
After this is done, the fronts should be smoothed down, allowing 
the parts thereof to adjust themselves naturally to the form; 
this will cause the separation of the guide lines at the middle 
of the front, below the girdle. Now with the left hand, take hold 
of these two projecting parts in the middle of the front allowed 
for the lap, not pulling away, but pressing them toward the 
corset, and with the right hand pinning the parts together from 
the above remaining pin downward, letting out in so doing as 



the figure may require. After this is done, pin the middle of the 
waist in front to the underwaist, or corset, to keep it in place, 
while making the necessary alterations on the other seams. Now 
commence with the first dart on the right side of the garment, 
by taking hold of the seam on the double with the left hand 
from as high as it is ripped, letting the seam out only from the 
dart joining toward the front, according to the requirements of 
the figure, and using the dart joining part toward the space 
between the two darts as a guide, in pinning the two joining 
parts together down to the bottom, being careful not to disturb 
the space between the two darts. The second dart should be 
treated in like manner, letting the seam out only from the dart 
joining toward the side, and using the dart joining toward the 
space between the two darts, as a guide in pinning the seam 
down to the bottom, letting out in so doing as the figure re- 
quires. For this figure, it is often found necessary to alter the 
position of the curve of the waist, which may be done by ripping 
side seam, No. i, from a little above the girdle of the waist 
downward, and making the alteration on that seam according 
to the requirements of the figure. 

THE MOSCHCOWITZ MODEL LADIES' SKIRT PATTERN. 

This skirt pattern is printed on paper in all sizes of waist, 
hip and skirt length measurements, so that any given or required 
size in width and length may be obtained from each pattern. 

THE MOSCHCOWITZ MODEL CHILDREN'S SKIRT PATTERN, 

FOR ALL CHILDREN'S SKIRTS BETWEEN THE AGES OF 
THREE AND NINE YEARS. 

This skirt pattern is also printed on paper in all sizes, both 
in width and length, and consists of two parts, viz.: half of the 



front width, and the back. Each size is marked with lines 
indicating where to cut, according to the required width and 
length. 

MOSCHGOWITZ MODEL CHILDREN'S DRESS PATTERN. 

FOR CHILDREN'S GARMENTS OF ALL KINDS AND IN 

ALL SIZES. 

These garments are all printed on paper in all sizes, and con- 
sist of five different parts, viz.: half of the front, a side shape, 
half of the back, and the upper and under parts of the sleeve. 
Each size is indicated by different lines, as follows: 

3 years, ---- — _-_ 7 years, .. . ^ . ^ . __ . ^ 
5 years, __..... _ r» yparc 
The indicated double lines, 



The indicated block lines, ■■■■hmhmhhmmhhmm 

on which the cutting is to be done. On each part of the 
pattern there are seams indicated by the double lines, as above, 
on which no alterations are to be made in cutting according 
to the different sizes for different garments. These double 
lines are indicated down the middle of the front half, and at 
seam (letter B) toward the back on the side shape, also at the 
same seam toward the side, and down the middle of the back 
half of the pattern, and also at the front seam of the upper 
and under halves of the sleeve. The block line, as above, on 
each part of the pattern indicates the basque and sacque length 
for all sizes. Each part of the pattern is indicated by letters, 
showing where the different parts are to be joined together. 

This model pattern contains basque, jacket, walking-coat, 
and princess dress patterns. 

The above mentioned patterns are only obtainable at the 



23 

stated price, on receipt of the mentioned coupon — the price of 
which being otherwise twenty-five cents. 

The following model patterns will be ready shortly, and are 
also obtainable as above stated : A pattern for half-fitting gar- 
ments, which will contain wrappers, jackets, cloaks, and ulsters 
in all sizes and lengths; a pattern for loose-fitting garments 
containing wrappers, breakfast jackets, dressing sacques, etc., in 
all sizes and lengths; and a pattern for tight-fitting garments, 
containing wrappers, princess dresses, walking-coats, street-jack- 
ets, house-jackets, in all sizes and lengths. 

The information herein will be found of great assistance 
to dressmakers (both professional and unprofessional), in 
fitting a waist cut from the model waist-lining. Our waist- 
lining, and all methods of cutting, are originally calculated 
for good figures, as before mentioned; and owing to the 
many different shapes and deformities of women, alterations 
thereon are more or less required. We alone offer the pub- 
lic these special instructions which will be found of great assist- 
ance, and by which a correct result is obtained. 

It is not pretended that every emergency in the fitting of all 
irregularities of figure, with their needed intricate and detailed 
instructions, can be supplied within the limits of so small a pub- 
lication as that which we now present to the public ; a much 
larger and more comprehensive volume is required, and has 
become one of the prime and indispensable requisites of our in- 
dustrial civilization. A work that shall cover the whole ground 
of dress-making and dress-fitting from an artistic, professional, 
non-professional, and economic standpoint ; comprehending in 
its scope a resume of dress through all its ramifications and 
changes, from the mythical fig-leaves of barbaric innocency to 
the elegance and grace of modern fashion and refinement ; 
showing the stages of its evolutionary progress, and marking its 



24 

present possibilities and triumphs as practically illustrated in its 
latest and greatest achievement, " The Moschcowitz Model 
Waist Lining." 

Such a woric as we have thus outlined is now being actively 
prepared by Messrs. Moschcowitz Bros., and will follow their 
" Instructions in Dress-making, Basting and Fitting," as set 
forth by " The Moschcowitz Model Waist Lining," which they 
feel assured will become not only a boon to the halls of fashion, 
but a blessing to all who are able to appreciate neatness, ele- 
gance and taste in dress, combined with economy and a perfect 
fit. 



THE MOSCHCOWITZ MODEL 
CHILDREN'S PATTERN. 




Fig. I. 



Fig. 2. 



The Moschcowitz Model Children's Dress Pattern is 
a paper pattern for children's garments of all kinds. 
It is a sheet of paper with all the sizes of a pattern 
printed thereon in the usual five different parts, viz.: — 
Half of the front, a side shape, half of the back, and the 
upper and under halves of the sleeve, so that from one 
pattern any required size may be selected and then cut 
out according to the directions which are given on the 
pattern. It is so simple that no one can fail to see its 
purpose readily. 

The illustrations represent some of the different 
kinds of garments which can be cut and made by the 
Moschcowitz Model Children's Pattern. 

The shape of these garments as of all others of such 
styles are to be cut plain, just as the pattern is designed, 
and the trimmings should be added according to any 
desired fashion plate or design, but the foundation 
must always be the same the Model Pattern. 

Fig. 1 represents an outside garment. 

Fig. 2 represents a jacket or basque waist, forming 
also a skirt at the lower part. 

Fig. 3 represents a street garment. 

Fig. 4. is a jacket for house or street wear, tight fit- 
ting in the back, loose in front, but in this case the two 
darts which are indicated on the pattern should not be 
made use of. 





Fig. 3. 



Fig. 4. 



These illustrations, all differing in style can be cut 
and made by this Model Children's Pattern, and 
trimmed according to the design. These illustrations 
are given for the purpose of showing that any style of 
children's garment can be cut and made by the above- 
mentioned pattern, for the reason that a garment, no 
matter of what style, must first be cut into its general 
component parts before any trimming is applied ; the 
trimming being merely a secondary matter, which alone 
constitutes the style and not the parts of the pattern. 
The least change of trimming on a garment will alter its 
style, thus it is evident that the trimming has nothing 
whatever to do Avith the cut of the garment. 

It is not only some styles that may be cut by this 
Model Children's Pattern, but it is made for all styles 
of garments for children, and is sold for the small price 
of ten (10) cents. 

Ask your Dry Goods dealer for the above 
mentioned Children's Pattern; if not obtain- 
able there, send for them, enclosing cost and 

postage, to 

M. KAEMPFER, 

299 Fifth Ave., 

New York. 



SIXTH AVE. & 21st STREET. 

FINE MILLINERY GOODS, 

HATS, FLOWERS, FEATHERS, RIBBONS, 
LACES and EMBROIDERIES, 

smwmmmw A.mm wM^mm^ 

CORSETS AND UNDERWEAR, HOSIERY AND GLOVES. 
CURTAINS AND UPHOLSTERY GOODS, 

SUITS AND CLOAKS, 
ALL AT POPULAR PRICES. 



Ask your Srocer for 




THE 




Emw mEmEmm^ 



Sold at all the principle Dry Goods 

houses throughout the 

United States. 

MANUFACTUKED ONLY BY 

M. KAEMPFER, 

299 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK, N. Y. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 973 090 2 



